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Andalusia

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    • Day 35

      Our whole day in Granada

      Yesterday in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

      A very good day, and we haven’t had this crazy dinner yet. But it wasn’t hot!! Bliss for me, and in fact I had to run up the 4 flight to our room when we set out this morning to get my cardigan and Amr’s puffer jacket! We took them off by midday, but I was cold in the cathedral, and the temperature never rose above mid 20s I think…perfect.

      So we had breakfast, good coffee, mediocre pastry but enough to get us walking up the hill to the mirador san Nicolas where there are rather spectacular views over to the Alhambra and down to Granada itself. Then we walked back through the Albercin area, narrow streets, very pretty and very uneven cobbles to walk on. On the way up, or earlier we stopped for coffee/chocolate and churros, and when we finally got back to the centro we had lunch…I had virtually given up calamari plancha as everywhere it is fried like you can get anywhere, but we stopped at a place that seemed frequented by locals mainly and found that after 1 pm the lunch menu would start and indeed they did do plancha…so happy and it was delicious…

      Then back to the room for a little downtime before setting off again to see the cathedral and another uphill walk, this time on the Alhambra side. The cathedral is amazing, as so many of these cathedrals are - massive and very ornate. You get an audio tour on your phone which even I could do with the help of their wifi, and we had a good visit with all the details of chapels..then we walked up the hill on the Alhambra side, and were able to walk into the gardens and some of the outer buildings, and look over to where we had looked from in the morning. So lots of uphill walking, and then a gentle walk down…had a pre dinner drink at our nearby plaza and then a relax before the dinner at 8.

      So Carmen, the wife of Manuel the owner, brought us costumes to wear…rather uncomfortable…but actually Amr looked rather dashing! We had thought that he, Manuel, and his wife and daughter, would also be at the dinner…a family dinner that his elderly mother (aged 77!!) cooked. In fact they weren’t eating with us, but there was a very nice middle aged Swiss woman, Anne, and an Asian/American couple, Carole and Sampson, who live in Seattle, and we all got along well and had lots of chat…but a bit weird, and the meal was nice, but not a dining experience! So we are now back and ready for bed…bus at 10am for Cordoba where we stay for 3 nights, and where Omnia joins us!
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    • Day 34

      Granada - still hot!

      May 13 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 20 °C

      This morning we had breakfast at our now favourite place - good coffee and fab OJ - not surprising in Seville, surrounded by orange orchards, and orange trees decoratively in the streets and courtyards. Then we had a last walk around - the morning air is lovely and cool, and stays pleasant until about midday when the heat sets in and gradually fades as the sun sets.

      Got a 1pm bus to Granada, arriving at 4. Drove first through orchards, some grain, and we spotted sunflowers with flowers starting to show! Yay! But then we got to olive land, (there are always some olive groves dotted around) but we came to miles and miles of olive trees, as far as the eye could see, in every hill and valley! So many! Arrived here at the bus station which is on the outskirts of the city, and thankfully never contemplated walking in…and Granada is now large…it may have been large in 1994, but now it seems bigger and busier and thronging with tourists.

      So we got a taxi and had a very entertaining driver, a bit like an old hippie, who spoke rapid Spanish non stop. Amr is very good and brave, and sounds so good that the conversation progresses in Spanish and I’m never quite sure if we missed a vital word…but Amr is also very good at picking up key words and getting the gist! So we had this crazy conversation once he found out we were Australian - his keywords were Nicole Kidman, Russell Crow, Hugh Jackman, didgeridoo, and he told us the best tapas bar to go to which would be like finding a needle in a haystack…

      But we were dropped off at another quaint hostal I had booked, again right in the centre in a tiny alley and walking distance to everything. Only downside of these charming places is there is usually not a lift, and this time we are on the fourth floor, but it is an amazing room - and you only have to carry the bags up once! Almost the same temperature here as in Seville, even though a bit mountainous, but again does cool off.

      When we came back from our first venture the actual owner was at reception, and greeted us and asked if we would like to see the rest which is like a museum. He is a lovely middle aged man, a bit crazy, and mad about medieval things…the hotel is actually about 4 terrace houses, but after covid only 2 being used as rooms, and one is the “museum” part - a dining room with extraordinary furniture, suits of armour and more, and another is an Arabic room, with Islamic furniture and artifacts…quite amazing. He said his elderly mother cooks dinner two nights a week for his family and guests who want to come, and it is a medieval feast …with costumes! We signed up for it…despite not being fancy dress people, it sounds mad and fun, so that will be an experience tomorrow night.

      Meanwhile we came back to a nearby bar which we had decided on for a meal as they had calamari a la plancha, but when we had settled in and asked for it he said no calamari today - Monday, so can’t be fresh - a good reason, we were impressed, and had a good dinner anyway. Now, having climbed our four storeys of stairs, ready for bed!
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    • Day 58

      Tarifa (Los Baños de la luz)

      May 9 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 20 °C

      ko/ 13.05. wir waren die letzten Tage bei einer ganz alten Freundin von mir. Wir waren sehr eng befreundet vor 30 Jahren. Dann haben wir uns aus den Augen verloren, sie zog an den Bodensee, später hier her und ich nach Dresden. Vor einigen Jahren habe ich mal wieder Bachblüten bei der spanischen Firma Milagra bestellt und als der Besitzer Walter (Buzzl) hörte, dass ich aus Braunschweig bin, hat er mich an seine Braunschweiger Kollegin weiter gereicht, meine alte Freundin Kathrin!!! Vor kurzen hab ich mal wieder bestellt und mit ihr gesprochen und diesen Halt hier fest eingeplant. Dieser Ort ist verrückt. Überall gibt es verwunschene Zelte und Ecken, Frösche quaken, Kühe, Esel, Pferde, Hunde und Natur pur. Die Menschen dort, Tatiana, Kalle, Olga, Heiko, Buzzl und natürlich Kathrin sind alle ein bisschen verrückt, sehr spirituell und machen es uns sehr schwer weiter zu fahren. Wir kommen wieder!Read more

    • Day 140

      Auf nach Portugal

      May 12 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

      Heute machen wir uns auf den Weg nach Portugal und kommen kurz vor der Grenze noch an einem spanischen Dorffest vorbei. Hier war gerade Gottesdienst im Freien und viele Familien hatten dort ein geschmücktes Häuschen wo gefeiert wurde. Unser heutiges Ziel war der schattige Stellplatz unterhalb der Stadtmauern von Monsaraz, ein kleiner Ort auf einem Hügel mit nur 658 Einwohnern umrandet von mittelalterlichen Mauern und einer alten Burg (einer der schönsten ummauerten Orten Portugals) . Von hier oben hat man einen fantastischen Blick auf den großen Alqueva Stausee. Auch hier war seit gestern ein Mittelalterliches Fest zugange und so konnten wir das schöne Dorf auch noch geschmückt erleben😍🤩
      Übrigens: wir haben hier wieder eine Zeitumstellung (-1Std.)
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    • Day 33

      Successful Sunday in Seville

      May 12 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

      We (or I) had been a little worried how we would cope today with the heat, weekend crowds and general chaos, but we worked out a successful plan. First was a painful bit - we decided to queue for one of the 400 tickets sold on the day for the Alcazar. So, after only eating mandarins in our room we set off to join the line by 8.45 (they start selling at 9)…we were clicked off - they count off the first 400 so we knew we were in, but it was a LONG line. And it took 2 hours!!! During the time, we learnt that they require ID - to prevent scalping tickets - and my precious passport was tucked away safely in the hotel. Amr had a photo of his which is acceptable, but I hot tailed back, a little nervous that I would get lost in the labyrinth, collected passport and enjoyed the brisk walk! And gained confidence that I wasn’t too dilly and could find my way - at 9.30 the streets are deserted, except for tourists wanting to buy tickets, and shops and bars all closed, and each alley looks the same. The 9.30 bells from the Giralda bell tower of the cathedral entertained us - bells visibly swinging and ringing in every space! (See and hear video)

      After getting the precious tickets, for 3 pm when we would avoid some of the hottest part of the day, we went back to hotel to unwind, hide precious passport away, and recuperate.

      We then went to check the cathedral which had been totally sold out for visits, and discovered that there was a Mass at 1pm, and people could go in for that…so we did. We quite often attend masses on the Camino, especially with Rachel and Richard, and enjoy the peace and contemplative time, even though it is in Spanish. It was in one of the very decorated chapels, and many people were there. And when it was over, we were free to have a wonderful walk around, with many others, and admire the splendour and enormity of this cathedral in total peace. It was Amr’s inspiration that we do this and it was brilliant!

      Then time for lunch and we went to a great place where we hope to go to dinner soon, and had, finally, my chiperones a la plancha which I have been fantasising about, but which we never seem to find available. Delicious, and some cod croquetas. By then it was 3pm and time for our Alcazar visit…and of course it was just amazing. We remembered the exquisite and ornate Islamic decoration and carving…very similar to the Alhambra. So we are satisfied. The only thing missing was that the fountains in the courtyards weren’t founting…I don’t know why. I remember them as the peaceful sight and sound in the courtyards…maybe they worry in these mad times that someone will drown…anyway, after admiring the building itself, we went into the gardens of the alcazar and sat on a seat and had kindle time. Peacocks and ducks, people wandering…just a lovely time. Now back, via some hydration, and will soon set off for dinner. And tomorrow a new adventure - to Granada.
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    • Day 23

      Granada

      May 9 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

      Trotz aller Feierei geht es heute mit dem Rad nach Granada. Wir pirschen uns von oben heran, da wir natürlich keine Karten für die Alhambra ergattern können. Laut online Portal hätte wir Ende Juni wieder die Chance. Wir weigern uns nach wie vor unsere Reise diktieren zu lassen und müssen deshalb auf diese touristischen Highlights verzichten. Wir haben einen tollen Blick, tauchen einfach in die Stadt ein und haben einen wundervollen Tag.Read more

    • Day 2

      Nerja: Hier lacht die Sonne

      May 10 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

      Nachdem wir uns entschieden haben, dem Partytrubel den Rücken zu kehren, sind wir nach Nerja gestartet - dem Ort, wo die Sonne🌞, das Meer🌊 und das spanische Flair🇪🇸 eine unwiderstehliche Symbiose eingehen. Nachdem wir unser Auto ausserhalb der autofreien Altstadt geparkt haben, sind wir für einen Eroberungsfeldzug💪 bereit.

      Der "Balcon de Europa" erhebt sich über dem Mittelmeer wie ein Wächter der Küste, der uns mit einem herrlichen Panoramablick belohnt. Zwischen Sandbuchten🏖️ und den schroffen Gipfeln der Sierra de Almijara gelegen, ist dieser Aussichtspunkt ein wahres Juwel der Costa del Sol.

      In den verwinkelten Gassen der Altstadt verlieren wir uns in einem Labyrinth aus weiss getünchten Häusern und bunten Blumentöpfen🌺. Ein Eis 🍦 in der Hand fehlt natürlich auch nicht. Wir entscheiden, weiter in den Osten zu fahren und lassen Nerja hinter uns. Das Hotel Miba in Salobreña ist unser Ziel. Von aussen schaut es nicht so einladend aus, aber es wird sich in eine wahrliche Oase entpuppen. Nachdem die nette Mujer an der Reception fragt, ob uns das Zimmer gefällt sagen wir: „Können wir für immer bleiben?“🥰
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    • Day 2–3

      Mit McGyver gegen die Partyhorde😱

      May 10 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

      Die Nacht in Malàga war ein wahres Überlebensabenteuer! Dank McGyver aka Patrick, der den Türschlitz mit einem Badetuch ⬜️ abdichtete, konnten wir doch noch Schlaf erhaschen. Patrick meinte, er hätte den Fernseher 📺👎 nicht gehört, da eine feierwütige Horde, durch die Gänge zog (gefühlt durch unser Zimmer steppte👯‍♀️). Ich sage euch, das Video müsst ihr unbedingt mit Ton anschauen! Es ist kaum zu glauben: Ich bin tatsächlich nur einmal aufgewacht! Meine Ohropax haben mich ohne bleibende Schäden durch die Nacht gebracht. Dr. Hansaplast hat einen Oscar verdient!

      Beim Frühstück stellten wir uns allerdings die Frage: Wo 🤔 waren all die jungen Partygänger hin? Der Frühstücksraum war voll - aber nicht mit denen, die wir erwartet hatten. Stattdessen trafen wir auf eine Invasion englischer Damen fortgeschrittenen Alters👵, die literweise Wasser in sich hineinkippten und gackerten, als gäbe es kein Morgen mehr. Sind das etwa die berühmten Partytiger😱? Ein echtes Rätsel!

      Es schien, als hätten die Engländerinnen das Hotel in Beschlag genommen und für sich vereinnahmt. Zum Glück behielt ich ein wachsames Auge👀 auf meinen „Hombre“, um sicherzustellen, dass er nicht von den Ladies eingekreist wurde. Ein wahrer Albtraum🤯!

      Wir packen unsere 7 Sachen und beschliessen, weiter entlang der Küste Richtung Norden zu fahren und hoffen auf weniger englische Invasionen. Unser nächstes Ziel: Nerja❣️
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    • Day 1–2

      Ein Spaziergang durch Torremolinos

      May 9 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

      Nach einer pünktlichen Landung in Malàga🇪🇸 (die Easyjet flog in Überschallgeschwindigkeit, die sogar die Concorde neidisch machen würde), düsen wir mit dem Shuttle zur Mietwagenstation. Unser Seat Ibiza🚙 wird uns schnell übergeben und wir fahren hüpfenderweise🐇 mit Handschaltung (natürlich, wie echte Profis) zu unserer Unterkunft in Torremolinos. Dort angekommen, beziehen wir unser Hotel, nachdem wir an der Rezeption ratlos standen und uns nicht sicher waren, ob die Person hinter der Budl ein Männlein, Weiblein oder doch ein Dinosaurier🦖 ist.

      Wir machen uns auf einen Spaziergang, doch Sylvia hat natürlich schon wieder Hunger. Also suchen wir uns ein Restaurant mit Meerblick und bestellen Burger🍔 und Calamares a la Plancha. Gestärkt schlendern wir weiter zum Hafen, bestaunen die kleinen Boote der Reichen und Schönen und erspähen einen Steinwurf weiter viele Surfer🏄‍♂️ im Meer. Die Wellen machen sich wirklich gut, im Gegensatz zu den Surfern😅. Wir kehren zeitig ins Hotel zurück, da wir doch schon recht lange auf den Beinen sind🥱. Ein erfrischender Schwumm in unserem geilen Rooftop-Pool bringt uns alle Lebensgeister zurück. Wir brechen jedoch recht früh ins Bett doch haben wir die Rechnung ohne die partywütige Horde von Menschen gemacht. Ich wache auf, Patrick hat noch gar nicht geschlafen, und es steppt gefühlt eine Tanzgruppe mit 100 Personen durch unser Zimmer… Echt jetzt? Fortsetzung folgt….
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    • Day 31

      Seville - no longer in pilgrim land!

      May 10 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

      Travel day today…we walked from our lovely hotel before breakfast to the bus station, about a 20-30 min walk. The bus station which was being renovated and rather chaotic a year ago is now great - comfortable waiting area, boards of arrivals and departures, a cafe for our bfast coffee and pastry and free clean loos! What else could you ask for. Our bus was express to Madrid and took about 3 and half hours…arrived before midday and had lots of time to relaxedly get from the enormous Madrid bus station via metro to the Atocha train station for our fast train to Seville.

      All went smoothly, and we remembered how to get tickets to the user-friendly Metro (and managed not to get pick pocketed - all my important things were totally impermeable to roving hands!) and when we got to Atocha had a light bite in our “usual” cafe in the wide leafy boulevard opposite the station. So nice…warm, sunny - I think my fleece that I have been wearing day and evening is now packed away till we return home! And of course here in Andalusia it is even hotter..hits the low 30s at the peak…too hot for me.

      Train ride was 2 and half hours and we went through so much cultivated land..grain fields, but mostly olives everywhere, and many many orchards of presumably oranges. And rugged and craggy rocky parts too..I love just looking out the window and working out the agricultural happenings. Rachel and I just about think we’ve sorted out barley and wheat using our apps! We arrived at 5.45 and were going to walk to our hotel (or hostal really - not sure of the correct definition) which is in the heart of the old town in the labyrinth of streets. Google gave directions and said it would be about 25 minutes. It was hot when we arrived - can’t say we were tired having sat all day, but we suddenly felt we’d get hot and bothered trying to find our way and decided on a taxi…nice driver who knew his way but had trouble as the police for unknown reason were blocking a street he needed and we drove round and round in this maze till he finally gave in and dropped us off at a square and pointed us in the right direction. It wasn’t expensive and I think he felt it was unprofessional not to get us to the door!

      So we headed off, bouncing our bags over the cobbles and with one help of a girl at a bar on the way found our wonderful resting place for the next 3 nights. Up 2 steep flights of stairs to our room (but the bags can go by lift!!) and we are very happy. Very close to the cathedral and all you want to see in Seville, just hope we can always find our way home…went out first and had a beer at the bar where the girl helped us, then walked round a bit but finally gave in and found a table at a lovely little place and had superb food. By 8.30 it was hard to find a table - all the bars were buzzing and had lines of people waiting, so we were lucky. We had an amazing dish of artichoke flower, grilled and spread out flower-like, with truffle, soft poached egg and Parmesan and nuts sprinkled…amazing combo that worked so well! Also for the first time found my fave baby squids, this time with a mushroom/garlic sauce, and our favourite pimientos padron…so we are quite ecstatic.

      But this is so different from pilgrim towns, even big ones like Burgos and León…maybe it’s just Andalusia but SO different. We haven’t been here since 1994, 30 years ago, so the same, but more so I think. On Monday we go to Granada for 2 nights, but have found out that the Alhambra is booked out till June 2!! Oh well, we’ll have a nice day seeing the other things and relaxing. Probably need it after 2 days here in the Seville vibe!
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Andalucía, Andalucia, Andalusien, Andalusia, Andalusië, أندلوسيا, اندلوسيا, Əndəlus, Андалусія, Андалусия, আন্দালুসিয়া, Andalouzia, Andaluzija, Andalusie, Ανδαλουσία, Andaluzio, Andaluusia, Andaluzia, اندلس, Andalousie, Andalosie, Andalûsje, An Andalúis, آندالوسیا, 𐍅𐌰𐌽𐌳𐌰𐌻𐌹𐍄𐌾𐌰/Wandalitja, אנדלוסיה, Andalúzia, Անդալուսիա, Andalúsía, アンダルシア, ანდალუსია, 안달루시아 지방, Endulus, Andalousi, Vandalitia, Andaluziya, Andalūzija, आंदालुसिया, Andalosia, Андалуси, Andaluzja, Andalusìa, Andalusiya, Андалузија, แคว้นอันดาลูซีอา, Endülüs, Andalusiye, 安達魯西亞

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