My trip from Hull heading eastwards. The aim is to reach Turkey overland, then into the 'Stans. Thence to India and further east. . After that who knows? But I'm not overplanning. Just going to see what happens. Read more
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  • Day 1

    North Cave

    March 22 in England ⋅ 🌬 11 °C

    So the day has finally arrived when I plan to head off into the big wild yonder. Plans have changed even at the last minute. For example I am now heading off on the bike when i had initially planned to leave it or even sell it. But it needs a service and I don't have time to organise it. It also has a - non-urgent - issue that needs sorting before I sell it and don't have the time to do it now. Also, I had planned to go via Ireland to see the Giants Causeway but the ferries are booked. The ferry from Hull to Rotterdam is not booked so that's the one I'm going on.

    Packing is always harder than it seems. In the end I'm taking just one big rucksack, one daysack and the bike cover. I had planned to bring a guitar along too but decided at last moment not to. Too tricky to carry and I believe that they have guitars in the rest of the world too if I decide that I need to play one. I should probably get a new daysack as the current one is too cheap and will fall apart at some point.

    Saying goodbye to the cat, dogs and Kate was hard. I actually cried.

    The bike ride to the ferry was not comfortable. I had the rucksack oriented lengthways which meant I was in a huge squeeze between it and the front of the saddle and felt very uncomfortable. But it's only 20 odd miles to the ferry port.

    Got the ferry. Strapping the bike down on the ferry - always stressful and was happy to accept help from one of the hands.

    Had pizza and then watched Dune 2 aboard the ferry but was too tired to make it the end of the film. Went to my cabin and had a sleep. The movement of the ferry coincided in my dreams with Cubby the Cat doing his paw massage on my chest. I'm going to miss him.

    My plan is to be gone for two years with a review after six months to see how I'm doing and how I'm feeling. If I'm happy to carry on I will but if not we'll see. After two years, who knows?
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  • Day 2

    Utrecht

    March 23 in the Netherlands ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    On leaving the ferry I had no plan except that I am heading broadly towards Denmark to get the ferry to Iceland. So I thought I would initially aim for Hamburg but it was quite a trek so headed for Utrecht instead which was only a short ride - see I set my Tomtom for winding routes mode and enjoyed riding round the Netherlands. Someone should tell them it's a bit on the flat side and could do with some hills. Stayed at a hotel about 20 minutes walk from the centre of the city. Had a bit of an explore. Am not quite competent at travelling yet, hence the lack of photos of Utrecht or me being able to name the hotel. Could look it up as there will be a record on the booking site but can I be bothered? It would seem not.Read more

  • Day 3–6

    Geesthacht, nr Hamburg

    March 24 in Germany ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    So my plan yesterday was to ride to Hamburg. The two youth hostels in Hamburg are both booked up so aimed for Geesthacht instead which is a town in the Hamburg area. Arrived and gained entry after a confusing phone call with the manager who spoke very little English and my phone was down to very little battery, but finally found the keypad to which she was referring and gained entry. Initially just me there. Had a dorm room but had booked it to myself.

    Rode into Hamburg station the following day. Met a nice old lady at the station cafe who dropped a ham bun onto the floor. I nearly caught it. But didn't. She decided to eat it nonetheless and was happy to join me and chat for a bit. Turns out she had a daughter working for the SNP in London. Well I suppose someone has to.

    In the afternoon back at the hostel I met Alexandre who lives in Hamburg and who is a nurse and an assistant at her local church. She is here with her daughter Freya on a few days' break. We got chatting because she discovered broken glass on the floor (not me!) which hasn't been cleared up. There were kids in the youth hostel by this time so let's blame them. After cleaning up we got chatting and continued during breakfast the following morning. I told her I was planning to ride up north to go to Iceland and then return this way. She invited me to stay with her on my return. Early signs are this travelling thing is a good way of meeting friendly people. Hostels especially.

    The following day I took an open top bus tour of Hamburg. It is a very beautiful city. I had no idea.

    Found a cheap burger bar to frequent in Geesthacht.

    When I leave here I am booked into a hotel in Copenhagen for the next two nights. Need to find somewhere to service the bike too.
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  • Day 6–8

    Copenhagen

    March 27 in Denmark ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Am at a weird hotel in Copenhagen. Copenhagen is very expensive and this hotel is one of the cheaper ones but it is odd. Might be a best western spin off as it has the thing where you have to wave a card in the lift to get it going. Haven’t really explored Copenhagen. Having a rest day instead. Rode to the airport and back to see how long it takes. I have booked a flight to Iceland now at least and finally taken out travel insurance (was relying on my Europe Health card until now but presumably not valid in Iceland as it's not in the EU). Good to go. Going to ride back to Hamburg and service the bike there afterwards.

    I was planning to take the bike to Iceland on a ferry and ride around. In hindsight it's a good thing I didn't (due the fact that getting there and back on the ferry would have cost about a grand) because it would have been way, way, way too cold and windy to get around by bike. It may have been possible but would have been very bleak.
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  • Day 8–10

    Reykjavik, 100 Hotel

    March 29 in Iceland ⋅ ☀️ 4 °C

    Arrived into Reykjavik late on Friday night. Could see volcanic eruptions as we approached the airport. Either that or the right engine was on fire. After landing onto a bus into the city from the airport. Got chatting with Dana on the bus (and a girl from California whose name escapes me!). As you do we exchanged contact details and said we would get in touch. Never heard from California girl again but Dana would become my bosom buddy during my trip here.

    The following morning, Saturday morning, got a whatsapp text from Dana and we met up for a coffee and had a long chat. We got on well and had fanship of the West Wing in common. As a result of her message I on the spur of the moment booked onto a Northern lights trip for that evening that she was taking. As with everything in Iceland it is super expensive. It kicked off at 8.30ish (evening) and we drove on a bus driven and hosted by a guy called BG up into the national park. We stood around for what felt like hours in the cold and saw nothing. So eventually we moved up to higher ground (where the two continental plates meet) and after another long time standing around in the very cold we got back on the bus. The trip promised the chance to re attend as many times as it took to see the lights. Having given up, the lights finally decided to do their thing. First as a lightning like spark on the right of our view and then gradually filling up a whole half of the sky they danced around. The moment that will stick in my memory - the lights were like a curtain and at one point it was as if we were directly below the curtain and suddenly we were looking right up and they seemed to extend into infinity. It was a truly magical moment.

    Again, company and specifically female company seemed to cheer my mood - I had been feeling a little down this morning (probably due to the massive cost of everything here). Along with Dana there was a Cheshire-based girl called Nicole who was a Manchester based lawyer - poor thing - and also a Russian girl called Olga. There was music playing at the time which I would have said would have been entirely inappropriate but which worked really well - The songs were Bob Marley ... One Love. And Over the Rainbow, the version by Israel Kamakawiwoʻole

    So after a lot of standing around under clear and therefore very cold skies we earned our reward. And it was truly worth it. One of those once in a lifetime moments. Worth the fortune that we paid for the bus journey.

    Dana and I have agreed to hang out for a couple of days and hire a car together so that is the plan for Monday through Wednesday.
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  • Day 10–14

    Reykjavik, Loft Hostel

    March 31 in Iceland ⋅ 🌬 -1 °C

    Sun 31 March
    So on this day, the Sunday after the Northern Lights, I moved over to the Luft Hostel from the strange hotel (100 Hotel) that I was staying at. Strange because I never met anyone who actually worked there. You checked in by a buzzer and found the key in the room. There was no reception desk or anything. There was a Chinese juice bar which kind of filled the reception area but I think they were just occupying the same building rather than part of the hotel. But I could be entirely wrong. Will never know.

    There was an interval between having to check out of that hotel and check in at the hostel so I briefly stored my stuff at Dana’s hotel. Fortunately, all three were on the same street (the main street in Reykjavik it would seem and the hostel was only a couple of minutes from Dana’s hotel. What did we do in the intervening period? Laundry and a first visit to the Cat Cafe. It was Easter Sunday so not a lot was open.

    I'd never heard of cat cafes before but apparently they are a thing. What is a cat cafe I hear you ask? Tricky to explain. But basically it's a cafe that has cats living in it. Combining two great things (cafes and cats) makes for an even better thing. I think in my dotage I want to set one up.

    So later in the day I moved into the Loft Hostel on the same downtown street. It was much cheaper than the other hotel but I was committed to a shared dorm now. I met Bibi and Izzy as I moved into the dorm (Izzy who was later to share a car with me). Bibi was from Belgium and Izzy, Canadian/Bulgarian. The hostel had a lovely relaxed bar area and a kitchen with a goodly supply of free food. Bibi had apparently managed to eat nothing but the free food which would drastically reduce the cost of Iceland. We also had a slightly odd French chap who was staying at the hostel for free by sleeping on the floors outside the dorms - despite the fact that we invited him in at some point.

    Mon 1 april
    So on Monday Dana and I hired a car together. Relatively cheap by Iceland standards, maybe £35 a day (each or combined? I can't remember) but after the insurance waiver it doubled to maybe £70 a day (must be combined - again I have the figures somewhere). It was not a four wheel drive so wan't really capable of severe off-roading but would suffice to get us around.

    It was a small black car - I can’t remember the make - but it had the registration KT (as in KT boundary - appropriate in Iceland). We hired it for three days Monday to Wednesday.

    So the first day we did what is called the Golden Circle. We drove to more or less where we were the previous Saturday night where we had seen the Northern lights and got a good view of where we had been. Here there was a view of the boundary between the two continental shelves (shelfs?). Also,Dana had booked to go snorkelling. They run tours where you can snorkel or scuba on the divide between the two shelfs. Dana cancelled her trip - with some reluctance I think - but on seeing those who were doing it and how freezing it was at the time, she realised she'd made the right choice.

    We discovered that you had to download an app to park. It’s harder to park than you think. No that’s not true. It’s not hard to park but you do need the app to park properly and of course it is expensive again to do so. Iceland is very expensive for tourists.

    Anyway on the Golden Circle we then went to the big icy waterfall (name it - come on check these things!!!) and then the volcanic crater. Quite a long day. In fact, I was to have three long day driving all day in the car. I think it was today we stopped off at a supermarket on the way back so we could have some food that wasn't super expensive. Pasta and pesto. Can't beat it.

    Tue 2 April
    The second day we went to Vik along the bottom of the island having been told that it was very spectacular with black beaches. First we tried to find a volcano that was erupting but were told that the roads to it were closed as people who got close to it were getting ill.

    So instead to Vik. The last 5 miles drive into the town were quite scary as there was an enormous blizzard and the traffic came to a standstill for a fair bit of time. Who'd have thought in Iceland? We did think we might have to stay there overnight but the weather did improve. In Vik went to the tourist info place
    and met Jane 3 (ie someone who very much reminds me of Jane Kennedy - I will leave Jane 2 out at the moment). Had a quick trip round the maritime museum and then went to to the black beach which was the windiest place I have ever been. Going onto the beach the wind resounded into a conical hole in the cliff and it sounded like a jet engine behind me. I really had to put all my energy into taking each step as the wind was so strong. Had been warned not to get to close to the sea as you could get sucked in.

    Dana and I spent the evening watching Princess Bride on my computer. She has good taste!

    Wed 3 April
    Dana passed up on today’s trip as she wanted to work and instead I spent the day with Izzy who was delightful. She is Canadian / Bulgarian. We started off at the cat cafe - my second visit. We drove towards and round Snaefelsnaes. Some amazing views and also a possible Game of Thrones volcano (I think the one that was in the Hound's vision). In retrospect I’m surprised there are no Game of Thrones tours. Perhaps there are.

    And I won’t forgot the desperate search for a loo for Izzy!!!

    Thu 4 April
    Today first thing I returned the car to the airport and then flew out back to Copenhagen. I had changed the date of the return flight out because it was just too expensive in Iceland. I spent that night, the Thursday night, in the Best Western near Copenhagen airport. So this was a day in which not a lot happened. I had to spend much of the day at the airport as the car needed to be returned by 9-10 am and the flight out was something like 3pm so it wasn't worth heading back into Reykjavik and out again. And there was also a three hour time shift between Iceland and Denmark so a very little happening day.
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  • Day 14

    Copenhagen, Best Western Hotel Airport

    April 4 in Denmark ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C

    Fri April 5

    After a long lie in, I collected the bike from the airport. First I had to head into Copenhagen central station where I had stored all of my bike gear. Then returned to the car park (car park P15 where I had booked the bike for the week of my stay in Iceland) at the airport to collect the bike. Then back to the hotel to collect my rucksack.

    Thence I rode to Kolding in the Netherlands (Kolding by name, Colding by nature frozen when I arrived). My aim was back to Hamburg but I didn’t want to do that in one go as it was just a little too far to do in one go as I discovered on the way up. Got very, very, very wet on the way to Kolding. So wet that not only did it penetrate me completely but pretty much all the gear in the rucksack - so much so that I had to empty it all out in my room to allow everything to dry off.

    Kolding is a lovely little market town where everything seems to be shut!
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  • Day 15–17

    Kolding

    April 5 in Denmark ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

    Sat 6 April
    Had a full day of R&R at the hostel and allowed my gear to dry. Had a little walk around the town and had a Chinese at a Chinese.

    Sun 7 April
    Rode to Hamburg to meet up and take up the invitation to stay with Ali from the Geesthacht hostel.Read more

  • Day 16–27

    Hamburg, Germany

    April 6 in Germany ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    So I spent a few days in Hamburg staying at Alexandre's who I had met at the Geesthacht youth hostel. She had invited me to stay but I ended up staying a little longer than either of us had expected because I needed to get the bike serviced and it took from Monday to the following Wednesday to find a day on which it could get serviced. I went to place called the Bike Factory. Had I gone to BMW, the waiting list was 12 weeks! Ali very kindly let me stay all this time.

    Sun 6 April
    This was the day I rode to Hamburg. Took a diversion to Sonderberg to see the castle. I found the castle a little disappointing. We definitely have better in the UK and I’m sure there are better ones to come in Germany. Set the satnav to arrive in Hamburg to avoid motorways. This made the ride more scenic but I did find Denmark a little bland for riding. Arrived in Hamburg at 17.30 with an invitation to stay at Alex’s in Hamburg. Alex and her daughter Freya were there! Lovely to see them both again.

    Mon 8th April
    Needed to sort a couple of things out. Alex was out all day. I spent the morning on a trip to the post office and exploring the local area. In the afternoon I tried to find somewhere to get Drogon serviced. I found somewhere but they couldn't get it done till the following Wednesday. So it looks like I have a week in Hamburg

    Tue 9th April
    Did some writing in the morning. Went out with Alex to the Hamburg version of the Cat Cafe in the afternoon. This one was much bigger than the one in Iceland. Took a while but in the end we did see some cats (they were well hidden). In addition the Cat Cafe was as woke as possible. It was entirely vegetarian. I had a "Beyond Meat" burger. It tasted as good as any meat burger I have had and better than most - certainly McDonalds/Burger King. No heavy stomach feeling afterwards.

    In the evening Alex had some members of her church round to her place. She had invited them to watch The Chosen which is a tv serial biography of Jesus, which, based on episode 1 goes into the background of the apostles in some detail. There were maybe 8 or 9 who came in total. Met another Alex, this one from Brazil, and Inna from Uzbekistan of all places! After I'd told everyone I was going to the 'Stans cos no one came from there! Both were very friendly and I suppose potentially they might be able to hook me up with things to do / people to stay with when and if I reach Uzbekistan and Brazil.

    Wed 10th April
    So this was a full day out and about in Hamburg with Alex. First we went to her church to take delivery of water bottles in anticipation of this Sunday's service. Then a metro into central Hamburg. Onto the ferry with a trip to Blankenese which is a very wealthy suburb of Hamburg. We had a very English tea and scones at an English hotel there. There we came back and did the walking tunnel both ways across and under the Elbe. Thence to the Hamburg fair, which reminded me very much of Hull fair. I wasn’t in the mood for any crazy stuff but we both managed the ferris wheel. Then back to Alex’s to watch House. Evenings were either spent watching House or playing card / dice games.

    Friday 12th April
    Went to the zoo and the aquarium. See separate entry.

    Sun 14th April
    Went to the Church service with Ali. Despite not understanding a great deal, I very much enjoyed it. It had a lot more energy than church services I remember. Had a long chat with Inna from Uzbekistan afterwards. She is very well travelled and might be going to Nepal at some point. Wonder if I'll bump into her there? Would be fun. Went for a walk later and did a full circuit of the Alster. Took more or less exactly 100 minutes. Not sure how that is relevant.

    Tue 16th April
    Had second round of the TV watching of The Chosen. Jesus again only appears at the end. Cameo role!

    Wed 17th April
    Took bike to be serviced. I think the chap had forgotten my booking as he seemed surprised to see me but he's doing the service and will be getting it back tomorrow.
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