Perafita

Camino Pilgrims can be early risers. Some get up early to beat the rush or the heat. Some wake up because other pilgrims are making too much noise repacking their backpacks. I had nothing and no one to blame this morning for waking up at 4:30 other than my own excitement.

I read for a while, gathered myself and my few things, and headed to the Cathedral at six. Porto streets are quiet in the morning, especially after a raucous Friday evening when the city was reveling with locals and guests celebrating that they were in Porto. Some of the partiers were still in the streets. The Cathedral grounds were deserted and I didn't waste any time or sentiment before heading down back-alleys and staircases to get to the river.

Fairly early I was passed by a couple of other pilgrims. That isn't surprising, I'm a turtle and I've embraced my slower pace. What surprised me was that neither of them had any greeting or acknowledgement towards me at all. I'm okay with people being in solitude, I'm kind of a loner myself, but part of the joy of the Camino is creating community and knowing that most likely we are all here to accomplish the same goal.

There were plenty of other people to connect with. One of the joys of being in Portugal is saying, "Bom Dia" to the locals. They light up when you greet them in their language and they always respond. Walkers, joggers and fishermen all told me to have a "Good Day." Some of them even wished for me to have a "Good Way."

Something feels different walking today. I realize that I do not feel in a hurry. I haven't been looking at my watch or my phone. There isn't a magnet pulling me this year. While I may be on my way to Santiago de Compostela, I've been there already. Maybe that is the gift that a 1,000 miles has given me. The reason I am back is for the journey and my soul already feels like it is settling. Santiago will be there at the journey's end.

I can see the mouth of the river, and then the ocean horizon. There are maybe five pilgrims ahead of me. They take a sharp right and head up the coastline. I walk out to visit the lighthouse. I am not in a hurry.

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Last year I tried to stripped myself of identity before I left to walk the Camino Franes. I was on a mission to find myself sans family, titles, and responsibilities. I wondered how I would get along without people knowing who I was. I left all the patches and pins off my backpack. I kept my tattoos covered. I even left my wedding and family ring (one with six turtles on it) at home. I didn't have anything with me (other than my passport) that identified me as an American.

Let's just say I found it terrifying. I was uncomfortable feeling unknown. After the second day's walk I sat outside a cafe at a table with other pilgrims, when someone asked a question about me I didn't stop talking for the next 90 minutes. It took me a good month to get that much information from my friend Mart, who was also at the table that day, but he says that is a typical Dutch trait.

I had a good long walk to digest my insecurity. My Shadow self likes the spotlight.

This time around I'm addressing things differently. I'm not hiding who I am, in fact I have conversation starters on my backpack in the form of patches. So far I haven't felt the compulsion to verbally vomit on anyone.

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I stopped for breakfast at a clever restaurant called Negra Cafe in Matosinhos. (Alex and) I had eggs benedict on savory pancakes. I'll probably make this for the family when I get home.
As I type this update I'm sitting at the family table at the private albergue where I'm staying tonight. It was time for their family meal but they told me I didn't need to leave, just scoot over. I could tell that they would have invited me to join them but I told them I had reservations at the restaurant next door for dinner. They could tell I would not say no to a pastal de nata and they were correct.

*****
The beaches are full of sunbathers, families, and people playing sports. It is the weekend and the locals are making the best of it. Almost everyone has a barrier set up next to their towels. It isn't for privacy, but the wind. But oh how I love the sea breeze! It made walking in the high 80's today very tolerable. My dermatologist will be pleased- I'm wearing long sleeves and pants that are rated to 50 SPF and I keep my hat on while I'm in the sun.

Besides the light houses there are chapels, sculptures, and history markers along the boardwalk. Some of the memorials are for tragedies that occurred during war or mishaps on the ocean. You might get tired of me sharing ocean photos, but that is where I am, and I am being fully present. What a gift!Read more